Thailand is teeming with excellent food, diverse cultures, beautiful temples, and more, but something that surprised me moving here was the number of Scots who’ve made a life here in the heart of Southeast Asia. Scots can be found all over the kingdom – whether in meditative and charming Chiang Mai, the warm beaches of Phuket, or the bustling streets of Bangkok; eating khao soi in a secluded Chiang Dao café, enjoying whiskeys in a lively Pattaya bar, ziplining in jungle resorts, or doing career-changing internships in the capital. Could Thailand be ‘just as Scottish’ as New Zealand, a country with a sizeable population of Scottish descent?
There’s a rich history of Scots living here, going back centuries to the days of Siam. In the early 19th century, during the reign of King Rama III, Robert Hunter served as a merchant and unofficial diplomat, laying the groundworks for non-Thais to trade in the kingdom. Hunter’s life provides insights into earlier forms of globalisation and the commercial links between Singapore and Siam. At the same time, Argyll-born John Crawfurd led British missions to Siam and Cochinchina (Vietnam) and gained key insights into Siamese affairs. Today, you will find Jack Bain’s bar in the upmarket 137 Pillars House in Chiang Mai; the bar is named after a Scottish family that lived on grounds in the late 1800s and participated in a lively Anglo-Scottish social network in the area, tied to broader Southeast Asian commerce at the time.
It’s not hard to find Scots making contributions to Thai life today. Turning to Google, we can read of Felix MacAlpin, a young Scot from the Isle of Lewis looking to start a pipes and drums band in northern Thailand. A Thai-Scottish man named Siranat Scott swam 30 kilometres from Ao Nang beach to Ko Poda and back, and says he is is interested in preserving sea life. Perhaps best of all, an Aberdonian named Jackie Gerrard serves up butteries, deep fried Mars bars, steak pies, neeps and tatties, Lorne square sausage, black pudding, and chips and beans to hungry expats at his bakery in Songkhla. The Daily Record claims that Scots punters are ‘queuing up to sample a taste of home’, suggesting there are a lot of them about – whether for holiday or in it for the long run. According to the Pattaya Mail, Scots have celebrated Burns Night for some years now, and some Scots may have come from abroad just to celebrate.
They won’t struggle to find their countrymen here: for those so inclined, the Bangkok St Andrew’s Society is ‘the oldest of the 4 ‘loyal’ societies in Thailand’, founded in 1890 by Scots living in Siam. Besides Burns Night, it also organises the Family Fair Kiddies Highland Games in September and St Andrew’s Ball in November. Its committee list is teeming with Scotch names.
I can attest to the quiet Scottish presence here. At my old apartment complex in Bangkok, the corridors rang with the familiar Scots burr I’d come to love during my time in Glasgow. During one of my trips to Chiang Mai, I ran into a Glaswegian and his Thai wife, and enjoyed reminiscing about Kelvingrove and the West End. Speaking with him was almost a relief! Most of the time I live faced with constant Thai. When English is spoken, it is usually American English.
During another trip to Chiang Mai, I stayed at the Anantara resort, which features a large bust of Queen Victoria, and is situated on land owned by the British government in the 20th century. I couldn’t help but wonder: how many Scots have come here, whether for diplomacy or leisure? How many Scots visit today? While living in Bangkok, I took a trip with the Siam Society Under Royal Patronage and was accompanied by two lovely Scots ladies, one a long-time resident here. I particularly enjoyed listening to her stories of finding pythons under her house – certainly something to consider when visiting this part of the world!
In Thailand, many Scots not only keep reminders of home, from butteries to decent whisky, but add ‘Thai twists’ – for instance, Jackie Gerrard has since added Thai food to his menu for anyone tiring of all those deep fried Mars bars. Scots here typically have previous international experience, with many coming up from New Zealand and Australia. Thailand’s Scotch community appears to come from all over – Glasgow, Argyll, Skye, and Ayrshire to name just a few. There are many Scots here in the kingdom, and plenty to remind us of home. They’ve been here for a considerable time, and will be here for years to come. Do come and visit whenever you have the chance, and on behalf of all of us: welcome to Thailand, a land full of Scots.
